Cotidiano de uma brasileira em Paris, comentarios sobre cultura, politica e besteiras em geral. Entre le faible et le fort c'est la liberté qui opprime et la loi qui libère." Jean-Jacques Rousseau

Friday, April 30, 2010

To his Coy Mistress

by Andrew Marvell


Had we but world enough, and time,
This coyness, lady, were no crime.
We would sit down and think which way
To walk, and pass our long love's day;
Thou by the Indian Ganges' side
Shouldst rubies find; I by the tide
Of Humber would complain. I would
Love you ten years before the Flood;
And you should, if you please, refuse
Till the conversion of the Jews.
My vegetable love should grow
Vaster than empires, and more slow.
An hundred years should go to praise
Thine eyes, and on thy forehead gaze;
Two hundred to adore each breast,
But thirty thousand to the rest;
An age at least to every part,
And the last age should show your heart.
For, lady, you deserve this state,
Nor would I love at lower rate.

But at my back I always hear
Time's winged chariot hurrying near;
And yonder all before us lie
Deserts of vast eternity.
Thy beauty shall no more be found,
Nor, in thy marble vault, shall sound
My echoing song; then worms shall try
That long preserv'd virginity,
And your quaint honour turn to dust,
And into ashes all my lust.
The grave's a fine and private place,
But none I think do there embrace.

Now therefore, while the youthful hue
Sits on thy skin like morning dew,
And while thy willing soul transpires
At every pore with instant fires,
Now let us sport us while we may;
And now, like am'rous birds of prey,
Rather at once our time devour,
Than languish in his slow-chapp'd power.
Let us roll all our strength, and all
Our sweetness, up into one ball;
And tear our pleasures with rough strife
Thorough the iron gates of life.
Thus, though we cannot make our sun
Stand still, yet we will make him run.

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Deeper Underground

Reading Marc-Édouard Nabe's book brings many many questions to me. How come there is so much mediocre (at best) stuff going around these days? Up till about the end of the modern art movement the arts were so alive with innovation (the real kind, not sticking an acrylic lobster on a crystal chandelier), authenticity, sincerity. Integrity.

What happened? Have people become dumber or has everyone just given up on the idea that there is such a thing as an original thought anymore? Have all good ideas been had?

I don't think so.

It seems it is more a question of how fast and how complex we perceive society to be, or how the actors in society (what some pseudo-intellektchuls would term "movers & shakers") want us to think it is. We work relatively fewer hours than our predecessors, and yet it seems they had more time to enjoy life, think and appreciate art. Some of them would then go on to become instructors of art, music, literature, and they knew their subject very well and had immense respect and admiration for the work of an artist and the creative process.

But now... Now what matters most is whether they can sell plastic.

Happy people or people who are reasonably satisfied with their existence don't feel a constant and unstoppable need to buy plastic all the time. They can sit and read, or walk and look at trees (ok, only for so long; after a while one tree looks very much like another...), talk to each other, play a boardgame, write. They have an internal dialogue that can last for a long time depending on the mental stimuli they get.

If the mental stimuli are of a negligible quality, the subject ends up losing interest in general. This happens rather quickly, too. The sadness of it all increases exponentially when the person never had anyone to point out what's good...what elevates, what makes one think about something, or how to look for quality. Because the Internet is wonderful when it comes to holding an unconscionable amount of data, but how can anyone find any of it if the object of the research is unknown?

Mediocrity in art is perhaps the only thing that can destroy the human spirit from within, long-term. Everyone says that's Communism, that Communism is against human nature and the "natural laws of competition". I'd like someone to explain to me as though I were an 8yo what human nature is, that's the first thing (Foucault & Chomsky couldn't in their debate Justice vs. Power, so good luck). Secondly, even supposing this is true, I doubt Communism can do as much damage to a human soul as can bad art in sheep's clothing.

Nabe thinks it is reversible. He says it is a question of diving into one's inherent abilities to tell the wheat from the chaff - he thinks we all have it to some extent, I'm not sure I agree with him. Maybe he's right, but that relies on one coming into contact with wheat.

The drama though is that many never do. Many people never get a chance to touch real wheat, only processed and bleached and with a thousand additives inside, shrink-wrapped, with a barcode on top, and a uniform price tag. Miles Davis or Chopin costs the same thing as Britney Spears and Lady Gaga. "Tutu" is "Oops! I Did It Again".

How, then, can people draw any kind of lasting joy from the arts or believe art elevates the soul if they're told it sounds like some guy shouting at the camera or a/another woman with visible undies and lipgloss shaking her bottom at a guy's face (not that there's anything wrong with that) or like Jeff Koons, whose name makes me think of another word and "whose art only works if placed against an outstanding background such as Versailles" (MEN, interview below). Or like that one French guy whose name escapes me (philistine that I am) who wrote an entire book that has as its primary "artistic quality" the fact it has no letter "e" at all?

I'm 32 years old and that is not a good defense against the accusation of reaction. But I don't think I'm being reactionary here. I admit to it freely when I commit that 'sin', make a point of it. There is no beauty in faking something, so I admit to it.

No, this is not about reaction. This is about recognizing that in order for more plastic to be sold, people must be unhappy. Then they queue for hours from Tokyo to Punta del Este to get a new PS3 which will give them a sense of renewal, innovation, freshness, when in fact it does precisely the opposite. It impedes any kind of profundity, even erroneous analyses, because it (momentarily, one hopes) steals one's capacity to reason. The same thing applies to other 'consumer goods' which come with heavy advertisement. They sell a dream, an illusion of happiness, and mediocre art is their accomplice as it numbs the mind, heart, and soul, creating a propitious terrain for mindless consumption.

.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

soundtrack to last Rome entry:



Gods and Goddesses Galore

Infine! I had to wait until the very last day in order to see some serious deities! The silver lining of the volcanic eruption (how often does one get to say this?) was that we got an extra day to play. We were supposed to be on our way to the airport at the time we went into the Museo Nazionale Romano. After the Vatican, this was the highlight of the trip for me.

The first one right at the entrance is Minerva. I don't think this is a good one of her though-- there were many more that to me were far more beautiful, but there is something moving in this one. A kind of warmth perhaps? which the other statues, though stupendous, lacked. Obviously the other ones are simply perfect. Here's one of Diana: Sublime. Superior. Splendid. Her brother isn't bad either--though again...this is not the best one of Apollo...but I like it that it has a pitch black background to offset the whiteness of the marble. It gives the statue movement and depth.

As I strolled in this very pleasant museum which was free (exceptionally) and almost empty that day, it was difficult to resist the urge to take 567 photos of 567 floating heads of 567 complete and utter strangers - not that I'm in the habit of having Apollo over for a drink-- Dionysus would be better company anyway -(there is a stool right behind his bottom so one can sit and appreciate it!) but I somehow managed. This proved to be a good strategy. As we made our way to the upper floors things got very interesting. If I had used up all the space in the camera, I probably wouldn't have wanted to delete any of the photos ... which would have annoyed me when I saw "heirm" (her+him as I think of it)-- the hermaphrodite.
I'm fascinated by statues of hermaphrodites and have seen the one in the Louvre many times, but never had my camera with me on those occasions. This is not a very good photo; we were not allowed to turn the flash on but I suspect I'm to blame for the poor quality here ...

My second favourite statue was not of a deity at all but of a boxer! It was very surprising. One can even see the wounds on his nose, forehead and hands from upclose. The expression on his face is magnificent in its humanity. The only times I remember being so impressed with sculptures have been in the Rodin museum. Before going there, I wasn't a big fan of what I used to think were cold, lifeless lumps of stone that wouldn't arouse in me any recognition of human qualities when I saw it. I stood baffled and corrected when I went.

My favourite one in this museum was a statue of Aphrodite/Venus. I don't think I want to make any comments about this one. It exudes beauty.

The third and last floor of the museum is dedicated solely to paintings, murals, and mosaics which I lovelovelove, but... I'm sort of aware that not everyone shares my passion. I might post a couple of mosaic photos sometime soon, on their own, because I think they require special attention.

The final item, signore e signori, is something that melted me because it was a contrast between inanimate objects and life. There is a courtyard in the museum and in it there are many tangerine trees loaded with fruit. A pity no one is allowed there... but I took a photo through the glass just because they're so so gorgeouslovelyfresh: So this is it. After that we went back to the hotel and prepared ourselves for the marathon that coming home turned out to be. Brain full of bellezza. Ciao!

Monday, April 26, 2010

MEN URGENT

I hate to interrupt the Rome trip but this is very important -- heh

I finally received Marc-Édouard Nabe's L'homme qui arrêta d'écrire, one of the books I mentioned in previous posts, and that I've been waiting for since 17 March, when I bought it on his website, the only way to get it. My order got um "lost" (but not the payment) Still...

The MEN experience started even before I began to devour his words.

It is a "different" book - no barcode! No editor/publisher on the cover, nothing on the back cover apart from the number 28 -- in pink!I love it.

This man is the first author in the world to own almost all the copyrights to his books- apparently he has managed to buy back 23 out of the (now) 28. By publishing this book himself, without an editor/publisher, he will need to sell fewer copies in order to get the same amount of money he would have done through "traditional" paths, selling far more. He (and all authors in France) get 10% of the price of the book, whereas bookshops get 30%. He financed it by selling his paintings (I don't know those very well...) and keeping it a total secret he was writing, given the book's title (The Man Who Quit Writing). He did write tracts and spread them all over Paris and Marseilles, stuck them to the walls, rogue style! Some of the tracts have since been translated and can be found on the website set up by his readers.

I love what he said in an interview when asked about editors and publishers in general.
He said the current "literary" system has only been in place for a hundred years or so; he went on to ask the interviewer: "can you imagine Hugo asking an editor if he thought it appropriate to cut the Waterloo scene, or whether Valjean should in fact do this or that..." No! I can't imagine it. But I had not thought of it this way before.

And it doesn't bother me that he put himself in the same category with Hugo. He's got the goods. Also...if everyone saw his predecessors as an impediment because of their greatness, what would get done? The Romans wouldn't have built much, after seeing the Pyramids.
Città-stato

And on the third day... we didn't rest. We went to the Vatican. It was better that we did not go on the Sunday, though I can only imagine what Sunday Mass would have felt like in Saint Peter's Basilica. I'm not sufficiently devout, however, to face a larger crowd than the one we encountered on Saturday late morning...

It was special to me. I did not expect it to move me to the extent it did - not only because of the physical beauty and sense of historical relevance. Nor merely for the art - which is outstanding.
The experience I had was metaphysical, transcendental. Probably brought about by the combination of art + history + religion + the fact that as we approached the chapel by the altar, the priest was about to start Communion.

I won't inflict it on you, since I don't proselytize and don't think it useful or wise to talk at length about something so intimate. I'm not, afterall, a writer.

I will post one photo because it is Art before anything else. Michelangelo's Pietà:


A much better photo can be found online.

Atrevida

In the afternoon we went to the Trevi fountain. Ah...I wanted to take off my jacket and put my legs in the water. If I wasn't so old I would have done it! Only children are allowed do certain things... it's very odd. What would have been so wrong about putting one's feet in the Trevi fountain water? No one drinks it! People throw coins in it and we all know how clean coins are...
Ok, I'll stop whingeing now and show you something sumptuous, how about? picturing my feet in the water...sporadic splashes on the most obnoxious tourists...stealing a coin from the fountain and throwing it back in pretending it's mine...standing in middle of fountain and screaming "Mamma! Sono tanto felice!" ... admiring the detail at the top and thinking Wilde thoughts..."We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars."

Friday, April 23, 2010

ed al secondo giorno...


Where was I? Oh yes. Colosseum. We spent so long there that we ended up not going to the Roman Forum the first day- it's right across the via from the Colosseum-- so we decided, or, rather, someone who shall remain nameless, decided we had to go there.... Being the sweet person I am, I agreed.

It was worth it. Hard to imagine that so long ago people could already build stuff. Erm. Ok I'll stop being sarcastic and say it IS an outstanding place, I WAS impressed. By the gorgeous olive tree more than by the ruins, though... Still, we had a few laughs (mainly me, chasing an Irish guide around hoping for a free explanation of most of it...)
Photos of the Roman Forum can be found easily online, so I shan't bother to post a million rather mediocre ones just because they were taken by me. Ok, just one. As you can see, archeologists are still at work there. In fact, the reason why Rome proper only has 2 metro lines is because of the archeological sites. What a hassle. I wouldn't like that part of living in Rome; the public transportation system...well, let's just say the Ancients would have been in awe of it, but not the Enlightenment philosophers...

We started heading out so we could visit another monument in the afternoon, and after climbing the stairs that lead to the street we had a supadupahypercool view of the city:
I love adore great surprise views, you know, when you're just walking, not expectng anything much and suddenly- whoa. It taps you on the shoulder lightly but feels like a punch, albeit a friendly one.

et nel pomeriggio

It was time for some great indoors roaming, ooh-ing and ahh-ing. Naturally, that means the ex-home of the gods&goddesses, before The Great Landlord evicted them and gave the keys to Our Holy Mother Church. No. Not the Vatican! I know...keys, the church...I know. I misled you. I'm bad. But that part comes later. Patience, patience! Rome wasn't built in a day, you know? Serious touristing takes time and effort, and a lot but a lot of reading if one wants to know what one's looking at. This is one reason why I decided not to go to the Sistine Chapel this time. (The other is because apparently it only stays open till noon and when we realized it was half past one...but no one needs to know this less intellektchul reason.)
So, what IS this monument we went to, you must be asking me now. "Tell me already!"
Well alright, allow me:



But before I do... let me ask you this:



You knew Marcus Aurelius?

No? Well I'll just have to find someone who did, then!

Ok, to the monument.



But not before I show you da main man, JC:No, silly! Not Jesus! Even John Lennon was bigger than Jesus! (rolling eyes) I mean Julius Cesar, of course! Duh. Helloooo-oh?

RIGHT! I promise, now for the monument:

Behold! The Pantheon! Home of the gods. And guess who was told off by one of the charming female guards for leaning against the oh-so-precious marble while she sat on the floor to take this photo so you ingrates could see it?
Look at this LIGHT!

Fiat lux, ya'll.


And so the second day came to an end. But not before we abused our feet some more by going to the Spanish Steps, or Piazza Spagna, where all the beautiful and not-so-beautiful people hang out, looking swish and sometimes not so much. I have photographic evidence I was actually there, but... I am not going to show off by posting millions of photos of myself when the star is Rome!

I'll do it the proper way, when nothing else can steal my thunder!

a domani, tutti! ciaaaaa-o!

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

SPQR
Primo Giorno

So then. We arrived and waited for hours while the hotel staff dealt with us. We finally gave up on seeing the room which wasn't ready by 1PM --those long lunches-- and went to town. Obviously the first thing I wanted was this:


It was delicious and after we sat for a while trying to feel refreshed -- and after I giggled at the German girls sitting next to us who ordered hot chocolate and were scandalized when it looked more like chocolate sauce than a hot chocolate -- we decided it was about catzo time to walk about and see stuff. Since we got off at a metro station near the Colosseum we just walked around a bit, not really purposefully at first, given we were going there anyway. There's so much to look at when you arrive somewhere you've not been before, and especially a place like Rome, that one doesn't really need to put too much effort into "sightseeing". I don't like it anyway, I prefer to just follow new shiny objects when I'm on holiday, though always consulting a little pocket map as I go...
We stumbled onto this took a few photos, went up those steps and made a right. We walked for ages, looking at everything and absorbing the vowels and body language, the light and smells; so close to Paris yet so distinct. We discussed this and I decided Paris and Rome are sisters but separated at birth. One subtle but imposing, proud and vain-- though with good reason; the latter more natural, more willing to show its imperfections without losing any of its attraction and charm.
To illustrate my point a little bit better:
What could possibly be the point of a balcony where it was placed? I can't imagine this in Paris. It would be considered a faute de goût or a lack of taste, but in Rome it just feels like "yeah, we wanted a balcony but couldn't put it in every flat. Or in front of a window, where people can actually get to it... So what?" But I do like this, even if it is a bit like talking loudly in a restaurant (not really a problem in Italy) or asking a man when has he stopped beating his wife. It shouldn't be done but when it is, it's hilarious.

As I said, I enjoy strolling in the streets more than standing in line for hours to go see a monument or museum. Sooner or later one must "see the sights" though and so... we did. Later, rather than sooner. In the meantime we sat for a bit after the first walk and I just observed people doing stuff for a few minutes, like this guy getting some water from a street fountain We were at a piazza with a fountain in the middle (as there are so many in Rome) but I did not want to take a photo of it. To our right, there were a few shops and in front of one there was a sofa right outside, where two men were sitting and chatting. Just like that. A sofa on the pavement. A nice one, too. I did not take a photo either, it wouldn't have been polite, but it was so charming, so bold, these two guys -- one of whom I suspect was a shop owner -- sitting there at 4 or 5PM, chatting. Living.

Next we told ourselves we really ought to go to a monument, even if we were tired and it was 5-ish. So...
We went for the jugular. Why shilly-shally?
Whoever guesses how many times I asked my better half if he "knew Marcus Aurelius" gets a photo of me pretending to be the Muse of Tragedy. No, but seriously... I still can't forgive myself for not having taken a photo with one of the rather naff faux Ancient Roman soldiers holding plastic swords. I almost did, but then I'd also have had to ask "posso toccare la vostra spada?" and I don't think the bookgit would have appreciated that. We stayed there forever and ever, fascinated by the sordid, horrific, grotesque spectacles that took place there, in a place of such perfect architecture, so carefully planned; to host such unspeakable cruelty.
Then I gave a Gallic shrug and asked "shall we go have a drink then?" and so we did, to a place with a view of the Colosseum because it may very well be unspeakable, but it is not unsightly.
Cin Cin!

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Eruzione Vulcanica

Roma Roma ma che bella Roma!

Got back not very long ago. Mixed feelings about the whole trip, really.
Exhausted because of volcano eruption and delays...endelessays... I did not know a free night in a rather nice hotel would not fill me with joy but...it didn't. Not knowing when I'd get home was not a great sensation, especially because the hotel told us we'd have the one free night with breakfast included and that was it so...

veni vidi spenti twenti houri on a busi backi to Parigi

Yesterday morning they told us we'd be riding a bus back... I could hardly believe it but at the time it seemed better than waiting indefinitely for a plane or a train. At the time.
The bus was supposed to leave at 8pm but in fact left at 9:30pm; by that time, I'd read the whole of L'Étranger, had about 32 cappuccinos and 13 espressos, ate an orange, and walked around the hotel like one of the twins from The Shining. The staff took pity on us and by 11am announced they'd give us lunch. I wasn't hungry but for free I'll even take the wrong bus. I mean in general, but definitely not yesterday!

Long story short, by 7am today we finally arrived at the Alps where we took a break. As I got off the bus I looked at those huge mountains covered with snow and the sun rising just behind one of them ... the Mont Blanc ... and I had such a weird feeling of ... joy! How absolutely stunning and majestic. It was cold, I was tired- no, that's an understatement-- and yet this landscape blew me away. I couldn't remember the appalling end of the trip anymore, at least during the moments I was standing there, being slightly blinded by the sun. Unfortunately my camera was in the suitcase in the hold so I couldn't take any photos, but I suspect it is better this way, that somehow I had to focus more because I knew I wouldn't see it again soon. Now I get why so many Romantic poets were so keen to cross the French Alps. Endless inspiration.
Inspirazione Senza fine.




More on the actual trip later.


Wednesday, April 14, 2010

I should be going to bed right now but I'm too excited about the trip so...

Here's a song I first heard when I listened to Carla Bruni singing it -- before she became our Emperor's - uh, President's- wife. She sings it OK but...not a great singer, tho charming.

Then I looked for other versions and this one is my fave so far. It's got that je ne sais quoi almost all Italian songs have-- a certain quality... soppy and earnest. I like it though, and it suits my current mood/trip !

Buonasera, tutti. A lunedì -- ciao!


Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Estne volumen in toga, an solum tibi libet me videre?
Is that a scroll in your toga, or are you just happy to see me?

We're off to Rome, so I'm practicing my Latin.

There's beggary in the love that can be reckon'd.
I'll set a bourn how far to be beloved.

Enter an Attendant

News, my good lord, from Rome.
Grates me: the sum.
How, my love!
Hear the ambassadors.


Wise guy that MA.